Showing posts with label antique prints. Show all posts
Showing posts with label antique prints. Show all posts

Buying Limited Edition Prints: What You Need to Know | NZ Fine Prints

Tony Ogle "To the Lookout" limited edition art print

What You Need to Know About Buying Limited Edition Art Prints


If you’re looking into buying a limited-edition print, whether you’re starting out your collector’s journey or are just really interested in purchasing a specific piece, edition info may not be the first thing you think about. Of course, if you have your heart set on a particular piece which you know you love, these details might not change your mind. However, knowing a piece’s edition info not only gives you a greater appreciation for the piece; it also gives you a clearer understanding of the piece’s value, the artist, and of the art market in general. Not sure how to go about buying limited edition art prints? Here are the important factors you will want to consider.

 

Edition Value

Many pieces of art—whether prints, photography, or sometimes even sculptures—are created in runs. These are multiple original artworks (not a reproduction of an original artwork) using printmaking techniques such as etchings, lithographs, etc. Even though many prints of the piece are made, they are counted by collectors and historians as ‘first edition’ artworks if they are part of a particular set. So, while a piece may not be completely one-of-a-kind, it is still considered unique or rare as part of an original run of prints. These limited-edition groups of works often retain their value very well, as artists usually destroy the materials needed to create extra copies that are exactly alike, such as photo negatives. That said, popular art can be re-printed for second or third edition runs, or even more if demand is high. These limited editions can also be worth more than a standard replication of a piece.

 

Print Number

Edition Number Pic
Print Number Example (8/75)
Given that editions get less valuable as they go on—first editions are more valuable than second editions, etc.—many assume this also extends to the number of the print. This is the number given to a piece to identify it within the edition. For example, if there are 20 copies in an edition, your piece may be labelled 5/20, or 13/20, or even 1/20. Contrary to popular belief, however, this number doesn’t impact the value as in general modern printmaking techniques don't wear out soft metal plates etc, which resulted in later prints being of lesser quality. In fact, most artists number pieces randomly, not in the order that they’re printed. Sometimes, the end of the scale (20/20 in our case) can be more expensive, but this is only because galleries tend to list limited edition prints in numerical order. As these run out and stocks run low, demand can lead to higher prices.

 

Artist Proofs

Limited edition pieces usually also come with artist proofs; look for ‘AP’ or ‘A/P’ in the edition info.
Mickey to Tiki (Reversed)
Mickey to Tiki (Reversed) by Dick Frizzell, featuring artist proofs
Other kinds of proofs exist too, which are provided by the printer, but artist proofs are more common. Artist proofs are popular at New Zealand Fine Prints because these are the first prints to be made, and any adjustments to the printing process are made by the actual artist working on these prints. The proofs themselves can be highly collectable—some of them might have notes or marks made by the artist, and this can make them much rarer and more unique.

 

Explore the world of art today

If you’re interested in edition info, your best course of action is to talk to the gallery or printmaker selling the prints. Here at New Zealand Fine Prints, we have a range of contemporary collectable ltd edition prints, alongside antique and rare pieces as well as our range of canvas prints, giclee fine art prints, and more, and we’re happy to answer your questions about the differences between all the different kinds of prints that we stock, whether open or limited edition. To find out more, get in touch with us, shop New Zealand’s largest collection of prints online today!

Definition of Print Terms

On old (antique) prints there are usually abbreviations of Latin words printed below or beside the image. These are like the credits, acknowledging the contributions of the artists and craftsman printmakers responsible for printing the print. For this week's article we have written an explanatory guide to the words that they are abbreviated from, offer a rough translation and expand the meaning/definition of these terms in the context of printing and engraving.


  • Del. or Delt.  Abbreviation of "Delineavit". Definition: "He Drew It". Used after the artist's name on a print to show that it was a drawing and not a painting from which the engraver worked.
  • Ex. or Execud. or Ext. Abbreviation of "Execudit". Definition: "He did it." Follows the engraver's name on the plate. Used in place of Sculpsit (see below).
  • Fc. or Fec. Abbreviation of "Fecit". Definition: "He did it."  Used in the same way as Pinxit (see below), usually follows the artist's name on the print. 
  • Pinxit. or Pinx. Abbreviation of "Pinxit". Definition: "He painted it." Used after the artist's name on a print to show the engraver worked from an original painting.
  • Sc. or Sculp. or Sculpt. Abbreviation of "Sculpsit". Definition: "He engraved it." The engraver's credit, on English prints the form Engr. is also commonly used.
Example of Antique Print by JMW Turner Delt., W.B. Cooke Sculpt.
So in the example of the antique print "Pevensey Bay" in our gallery today the English artist J.W.M Turner is credited for the original drawing (JMW Turner Delt) and the engraving is credited to W.B Cooke (W.B Cooke Sculpt.).  

How to look after fine art prints - with paper conservator Lynn Campbell

When NZ Fine Prints wanted to know what was best practice in taking care of fine art prints we asked leading NZ fine art conservator Lynn Campbell of Campbell Conservation to imagine giving advice to a brand new collector of original or antique prints who knows nothing about how to care for their collection. If you would like to get in touch with her regarding your paper conservation or art restoration needs please call Lynn at Campbell Conservation here in Christchurch on 03 980 4972.

(This article is the second part of our discussion with Lynn, last month we learned about the job of a paper conservator and the course of study and qualifications required to work in the fascinating field of fine art conservation.)

Conservation of art - General Principles

Lynn says "Try to provide conditions that are as stable as possible. High temperatures and humidity levels speed up the degradation of the paper and encourage mould growth. Fluctuations cause distortions and subsequent damage to paper items."

The optimum storage conditions are 18-22°c and 45-55% relative humidity.

These precise conditions are difficult to achieve without specialist air-conditioning systems but it is possible to apply some basic but important principles that will make a difference.  
  1. Avoid using an attic or basement as a storage area. These areas tend to be prone to dampness or water leaks and conditions can fluctuate greatly. 
  2. Keep away from heaters, fire-places and other sources of heat. Avoid contact with bathroom, kitchen, laundry and external walls, as humidity in these areas fluctuates greatly. 
  3. If possible use a storage location in the centre of a building away from external walls. These areas undergo the least fluctuations in temperature and humidity.
  4. Keep storage areas clean and well ventilated to avoid pest infestations and mould growth. 
  5. Avoid strong light sources and direct sunlight as these will accelerate the degradation and fading processes.

Optimal long term storage for works on paper like prints
Never use sticky tape! 


  1. Lay prints flat in archival (acid-free) boxes. Alternatively, use ordinary boxes lined with acid free paper. Valuable or fragile prints should be individually wrapped.  Store artworks in folders or keep them mounted and framed. Artworks on paper similar to prints with fragile or delicate surfaces such as unfixed charcoal or chalk drawings are best mounted to avoid abrasion and smudging.  For long-term protection, mounts should be made from 100% rag, acid-free, alkaline buffered mount board. This is sometimes called “museum board”. The mount should have a window at the front and the item should be hinged to the backboard. Do not use sticky tape to attach the work to the backboard (see picture of damage caused by sticky tape at right). Conservators prefer to use Japanese paper hinges and wheat starch paste because they are stable, long lasting and will not stain paper.  Frames can be fitted with glass or acrylic sheet. Items with loose powdery media should be framed with glass as acrylic has a static charge. In all cases there should be no contact between the item and the glazing.
  2. Place boxes off the ground (e.g. on shelves) to allow good air circulation and prevent damage in the event of a flood. 
  3. The storage area must be an insect-free environment so inspect well before use and keep it clean. If using pest strips, insect traps and pesticides ensure that these do not come in direct contact with the items as they can cause damage to paper.
  4. Ensure that there are no overhead pipes in the area, as these can drip. Placing plastic over the boxes may provide some protection but will restrict air circulation and may encourage mould growth.    
  5. Keep frames off the floor. Stand upright on blocks or pieces of foam if shelves are not available. 
  6. Avoid rolling oversize prints or maps. If this is unavoidable, roll onto a wide diameter (at least 10cm) cardboard tube, which has been covered with Tyvek™ or acid-free tissue. Wrap the rolled item with Tyvek™ or acid-free tissue.

Best protection for prints on display
The use of stable framing and mounting materials is especially important as even if the prints are being shown only for a short term exhibition they may remain in the frames after the exhibition is over.  

Correct framing is vital if you want to have your prints on display.  
  1. Glazing is a must with a works on paper like prints. The glazing should not come in contact with the object. Ultraviolet-filtering glazing is recommended especially if the room has sources of UV radiation. Note, however, that acrylics are not always appropriate for use in frames since these plastics carry a static charge that can dislodge pastel and other friable media. In such cases, ultraviolet-filtering glass can be used. 
  2. The mounting materials inside the frame must adhere to conservation standards. Conservators recommend use of pH-neutral or slightly alkaline (buffered) mats or mounts. Hinges or the non-adhesive systems should be used to attach the objects to the mount. If hinges are used, a high-quality, strong paper such as Japanese Kozo should be used with an appropriate permanent, non-staining adhesive such as starch-based paste. The back of the frame should contain backing layers of archival cardboard that are thick or dense enough to protect the object. Frames should be well sealed and hung securely. 
  3. Avoid hanging artworks in damp areas such as on un-insulated outside walls, which can be problematic in winter or during periods of high humidity. If it is necessary to exhibit on an outside wall, a moisture barrier of polyester film or Marvelseal™ can be inserted between the backing layers or over the back of the frame. 
  4. The frame should be deep enough so that its back is recessed, allowing a space for air circulation between the frame and the wall. Frames can also be held away from the wall slightly by small rubber bumpers or by push pins attached to the reverse of the frame.
Lighting Considerations
Exposure to light can cause discolouration and brittleness in paper and fading of media.
  1. Keep lighting to a minimum
  2. Tungsten light bulbs provide a less damaging type of light than fluorescent or natural light sources.
  3. Do not use frames with clip-on light fixtures. These create 'hot spots' which can dry out the paper.
  4. Do not display pictures near sources of heat or moisture.
Cleaning & Handling
  1. Check the backs of framed pictures periodically for dirt, dust, signs of mould or insect activity,
    Print damaged due to poor handling
    and to ensure that hangers and hardware are secure.
  2. Dust frames regularly. 
  3. It is important to have clean hands when handling paper based materials because paper easily absorbs skin oils and perspiration – these can cause staining and degradation. 
  4. When handling and transporting unframed works of art and documents, use a thick support paper or cardboard underneath or place your item inside a folder. When carrying a framed work, grip both sides of the frame.  
  5. If a valuable or fragile print is going to be handled frequently, it might be a good idea to create a duplicate. This way the duplicate can be referred to and the original print stored away for preservation.
And lastly a final reminder that resonates particularly with this writer's experience of the recent devastating earthquakes here in Christchurch - use closed hangers or crimp the hanging hook closed to help prevent the artwork from falling in an earthquake (we wrote in depth about this particular hazard and the lessons we learned in picture hanging advice after the Christchurch earthquakes back in May 2011).

NZ Fine Prints hope to have Lynn Campbell back on NZ Art Print News to talk about specific problems/attacks on paper, their remedies and the process of restoration later in the year.   We are very grateful to Lynn for her help in writing this article and also for her permission to use her photographs as illustrations.

Introduction to Early Prints of New Zealand by D.G. and E.M. Ellis

One of the first books from the back catalogue of our publishing company, Capper Press, a publisher of NZ histories, early travel and exploration books (as well as prints) to be converted into digital format is the standard reference work on early NZ prints by the founders of Avon Fine Prints, Don & Enid Ellis. We have not yet decided on the best way to make this classic introduction to collecting antique NZ prints available again (it has been out of print for 20 years), but while we sort through the myriad of ebook formats it's been a pleasure re-reading the author's introduction to Early Prints, first published in 1978.  Update: Since this article was posted we have listed for sale many prints from this book's author's collection in our antique prints gallery.

Introduction

Purpose
A print for the purposes of this work is defined as a commercially produced pictorial plate having no text on the verso, and no text other than title and imprint on the face. Illustrations as such are not included.

Date Limit
The date limit is 1875, except where the print concludes a series begun before 1875, or is thought of sufficient importance to warrant inclusion — a purely personal choice.

Index
The Index is the key to the whole work. Entry is made from all information on the face of the print, and items may be traced under artist, title, engraver, publisher, etc. Subject entries are nominal.

Portraits
Portraits, except as part of a series (e.g. the atlases to voyages) have generally been excluded, as they are already covered in Nan Kivell's Portraits ... (see Bibliography )

Natural History Plates
Natural history plates have been included in the form of a preliminary checklist only.

Artist's Prints
"Artist's Prints" are not included. Original etchings, engravings and litho-graphs produced by the artist himself in limited editions have been regarded as non-commercial.


Because photo-lithography, a purely mechanical reproduction process, had become common by the 1870's, the upper date limit was arbitrarily set at 1875. Some later prints have, however, been included: 1875, strictly enforced, would have omitted among others Barraud and Gully, which are the first names to come to many minds when New Zealand prints are mentioned.

Arrangement is basically chronological, except where adherence would break a series of related works: for example, Buller's History of the Birds of New Zealand is described in one section, though publication dates range from 1873 to 1905. It may be helpful to indicate the method of approach used to compile this checklist. Hocken's Bibliography of New Zealand Literature was consulted to identify all books mentioned as including illustrations, and these books were then examined. This meant that books in which illustrations were not specified could have been missed. Next, by courtesy of the Librarians, permission was obtained to examine both the picture and book collections of the Hocken and Alexander Turnbull Libraries. Finally, prints and books in a number of private collections and smaller institutions were examined. Most gaps were filled by this method, though there must still be omissions.

Purist cataloguing enters a print first under the final executor, i.e. an engraver is regarded as the interpreter and of- more importance than the artist. Nevertheless, it was decided to record the separately-issued print first under the artist's name where known, with additional entries for the engraver, etc. Prints in books are fully described in the entry under author and title of the book. In all cases the index is the quick reference key.

The entries show as closely as possible the wording which appears on the print: typographical limitations have precluded the use of dipthongs and superior letters. Oblique lines indicate line endings. Emendations have been kept to a minimum, and are indicated by the use of square brackets. Sizes in centimetres give height before width.

The word print is used as a generic term, and is to be understood as meaning the particular item under discussion at any time. Because of the difficulty of finding a single word to describe the craftsmen producing blocks or plates by various methods, the word engraver applies, regardless of whether the person concerned was engraver, woodcutter, lithographer, aquatinter, or etcher. Notes on artists, engravers, etc. have been included where possible, and this additional information is indicated in the index by the use of bold type for the reference number. Additional notes have been included for the author, as distinct from the artist, for several books: insight into the reason for the use of particular views may depend on knowledge of who wrote the book and why it was written.

It is often impossible to assign a print to a particular artist or engraver: during the nineteenth century it was usual for such firms as Day & Haghe, Smith Elder, and Hullmandel, to employ numerous engravers, several men frequently working on a set of plates for one book. The section at the end of the book is to be regarded as a preliminary checklist only for the natural history plates of New Zealand interest. The decision to include scientific plates at all was made reluctantly in view of the authors' lack of competence in these fields. Yet a dividing line was difficult to draw when such items as Buller's Birds, and Featon, Hetley and Harris' books on New Zealand flowers had clearly to be included. It is to be hoped that someone with the necessary training to identify New Zealand flora and fauna will take up the task at this point.

No compilation of this nature is the work of one person alone, and thanks are due to many. Whilst it must necessarily be an invidious act to single some persons out, special thanks are due to the Librarian and Staff of the Alexander Turnbull Library; Mr M. G. Hitchings of the Hocken Library, University of Otago, and his Staff; Miss P. French, Auckland Public Library; Miss Suzanne Mourot, Mitchell Library, Sydney; Sir Alister and Lady Mcintosh, and, above all, to Mr A. A. St. C. M. Murray-Oliver, who, in addition to locating rare material and giving advice over a long period, checked the final manuscript and made many valuable suggestions incorporated in the final text. The painstaking care and skill of the compositor and printer deserve specific mention. Without the help, information, and constant encouragement of these people, this book could never have been written.

D. G. and E. M. Ellis Christchurch